Tile Installation FAQ

No. You can come to the estimate with nothing selected and we can talk through options based on your budget, the surface, and how you use the room. That said, if you already have a tile in mind, bring the sample or a photo — tile size and weight affect how we estimate labor, since large-format porcelain (anything over 24 inches) takes more time to set correctly than standard 12x12.

We check for this during the walkthrough. If the subfloor has flex, low spots, or moisture damage, we will tell you before work starts — not midway through the job. Subfloor repair or leveling is a separate line item on the estimate so you can see exactly what it adds and decide how you want to proceed. Skipping this step causes tile and grout to crack within a year or two, so we do not recommend it.

For most straightforward rectangular rooms, ordering 10% over your calculated square footage covers waste from cuts and any damaged pieces. Diagonal patterns, herringbone, or rooms with lots of obstacles like islands and peninsulas can push that to 15%. We discuss this during the estimate and factor it into material planning so you do not end up short midway through the job.

A kitchen backsplash is usually a one-day job. A bathroom floor with tile removal and new installation typically takes two to three days once you account for prep, setting, and grout cure time. A full shower surround — walls, floor, niche — generally runs three to five days when done properly with waterproof membrane and adequate cure time between stages. We give you a timeline in the estimate so you can plan around it.

For kitchen backsplashes, the sink and appliances are usually accessible at the end of each work day. For bathroom floor or shower work, the room is typically out of commission for the duration of the job plus cure time. If you have only one bathroom, let us know when you book — we can sometimes schedule the work to minimize the disruption, or discuss what access is available at each stage.

It does. Standard gray or white thinset mortar works fine for most ceramic and porcelain tile on concrete or cement board. Large-format tile (18 inches and larger) typically requires a medium-bed mortar that holds the tile level without slumping. Natural stone like marble or travertine often calls for a white thinset so it does not show through the tile. For heated floor systems, a flexible thinset is used to accommodate expansion. We select the right product for each specific application rather than using one adhesive for everything.

Sanded and unsanded cement grout should be sealed once it has fully cured — typically 72 hours after installation, though some manufacturers recommend waiting up to a week. In high-moisture areas like showers, reapply sealer every one to two years. Epoxy grout is non-porous and does not require sealing at all, which is one reason it is a good choice for shower floors and countertops despite its higher cost. We tell you which grout type was used and what the maintenance schedule looks like before we leave the job.

Cracked tile after installation almost always comes from one of three things: a void under the tile where thinset did not fully cover the back, movement in the substrate that was not addressed before installation, or a crack that was already in the tile before it was set. If a tile cracks within a short period after a proper installation, it is worth having us look at the surrounding tiles to determine the cause. We keep records of the materials used on each job, which helps with matching tile for repairs.

We handle tile removal as part of the project scope when it is included in the estimate. Demo is listed as a separate line item so the cost is transparent. Removal generates a significant amount of debris and dust, so we contain the work area and bag the waste for disposal. If you have already had tile removed by someone else, let us know the condition of the substrate so we can assess what prep is needed before new tile goes down.